WARNING: Do not attempt to bend the  
cleats with a hammer, vise, etc. These are
heat treated for high strength, and may
crack, or fracture, if overloaded.    

Cleats are marked "R" (right) and "L" (left).
The heel-in stop is taller and provides more
resistance than the heel-out stop, so double
check the cleats are correct after mounting.  

For optimal performance, the cleat curvature
should closely match the shoe sole.
Before installing the cleats, remove the
walking pads, and visually check the fit
between the curvature of the shoe
sole, and the curvature of the cleat.

The rubber walking pads will compensate for
up to 1mm gaps between the front/rear of
the cleat and the shoe sole.

For larger gaps, lightly tighten the optional
rear leveling screws to be flush with the sole.
Make sure not to over tighten these against
the sole, so as not to warp the cleats.
The threads of the mounting screws should be lightly coated with grease, or removable thread locker, to
prevent rusting in wet conditions. Tighten these firmly with a Phillips head screwdriver, and check/re-tighten
after the first few rides.

Cleat Lubrication: For optimal performance and longevity, the recessed mating area of the cleats should
be kept clean and lightly coated with a dry chain-lube. Simply apply a few drops of lube in the center of
the cleat, then use a paper towel to lightly coat the surfaces, particularly under the front/rear tongues.

Caution: To prevent slipping, be certain to wipe any excess lubrication off of the rubber walking pads.
The left pedal is identified with a small groove in the end of the axle. It is left hand threaded. Tighten it
in the counter-clockwise direction. The right pedal axle has a right hand thread, and is not grooved.

To install the pedals, put a light coating of grease on the threads, then insert a 6mm hex key fully into
the broached recess (about 13mm or 1/2 inch) before tightening the axles to approx 300 inch pounds
Lubrication Instructions: To lubricate the bearings and flush the seals, while holding the "end cap" on
firmly with your thumb, use the end of a 5mm hex key to push the "grease plunger" in about 2mm every
2-3 thousand miles. When completed, check that the end cap is still flush with the end of the pedal, and
if needed, lightly tap it back in with a rubber, or plastic hammer.   
WARNING: be certain that you fully understand and have practiced engaging and disengaging the
pedals prior to cycling in traffic, or any dangerous place.
Starting with the cleat behind the pedal, bring your foot straight forward, sliding the front portion of the
cleat across the pedal (this properly orients the pedal as it enters the recess of the shoe cleat). The
shoe will come to a positive forward stop (1) when the pedal body contacts the rear wall of the shoe
cleat. Then rotate your heel out (2) and back (3), while pressing down lightly on the pedal. If you
encounter any unusual resistance while attempting to rotate into the pedal, DO NOT TRY TO FORCE
THE CONNECTION; instead lift your foot from the pedal, and retry the engagement process over again.

To Disengage: rotate your heel out and step off of the pedal.
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Boulder, Co 80304


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